Wiki: Castoreum

Oily secretion from beaver’s abdominal sac, usually synthetic now. Many companies are offering “reconstructed” compositions from synthetic or natural origin.

Chemistry of perfume

Perfumes encompass a wide variety of ingredients, which are tailored for specific occasions and seasons. Making a perfume requires extensive knowledge in organic chemistry as well as a creative approach to combining disparate extracts into a single perfume with layers of fragrances.

Scent chemistry: Blaženka Ćiško-Anić

Regarding complex chemical interaction with skin, it is not possible to unify scent impression on individuals, hence every perfume can’t fit every person.


Wiki: Chypre

Fragrance type citrus top note with mossy base (Oakmoss). The name of a perfume created by François Coty in 1917.


Wiki: Cistus

From Greek Kistos is a genus of flowering plants in the rockrose family.


Harvested from Civet's anal gland, no longer practiced now, usually synthetic.


Wiki: Citrus

Odor from oranges, lemons, limes bergamot usually the top notes. Most used in cleaning and industrial appliances. Very popular for fresh type fragrances. Beside natural sources there are many synthetic compounds available.


Merriam Webster: Cloying

Perfumers notice cloying by preparing concentrates. A good reason to test perfumes diluted on 10% or less to notice details. Overwhelmingly rich, potent or invasive with an excess of sweetness, nauseating scent hides real qualities of perfume.

Compound - composition

Completed perfume formula ready to be used in a product. Normally it will be diluted in a product depending on its time. Concentrations vary from 0,1% to 10% in consumer goods. For fragrance products see (perfume, EdT, scented water etc.).


Wiki: Concrete

In perfume is a semi-solid mass obtained by solvent extraction of fresh plant material. Solvent must be evaporated from extract components. Extraction is much more effective if components of plant are high volatile or decompose on heat.


To siphon, discharge, transfer perfume from the original bottle to a decant vial generally 3/5/10/30 ml size.

Decanting perfumes is useful cheaper option to try an expensive fragrance. For scent impression, 2 ml are enough and very easy to transport. For industrial testing 30 ml to 50 ml samples are mostly used.

Designer perfume

Perfumes made by houses who sell designer goods / clothes. Relates also to perfumes designed by specific perfumer. Sometimes connection with specific trademark impression (whole senses design).


Progress of a fragrance as it changes after initial application revealing different notes. Development relates also with internal development of fragrance mixture trough time.


How a fragrance radiates around a person and their surrounding space.

Discontinued perfume

Perfume no longer in production, may be hard to find & as such may be expensive if found. Nowadays remakes are available mostly launched by owners of trademarks (necessary because some ingredients are forbidden or not available at same quality).


Dry notes in perfume are usually provided by woods or grasses (Vetiver) & mosses (Oakmoss, tree moss), rhizomes (orris/iris) also leather. It's the opposite of watery, dewy style perfumes.

Dry Down

Final phase of fragrance applicated on skin.


Dupe (duplicate) is a copy or knockoff version of an original fragrance or original fragrance that bears an uncanny resemblance to another trademark perfume.


The length of time a fragrance lasts from application until it fades completely. Applicable as for cosmetic use as for industrial applications. Duration depends on many different factors and longevity is not always advantage.